WebWave Refraction Swell can be generated anywhere in the ocean and therefore can arrive at a beach from almost any direction. But if you have ever stood at the shore you have probably noticed that the waves usually approach the shore somewhat parallel to the coast. This is due to wave refraction.

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WebA platform is broadened as waves erode a notch at the base of the sea cliff, which causes overhanging rock to fall. As the sea cliffs are attacked, weak rocks are quickly eroded, leaving the more resistant rocks as protrusions. … WebRefraction is the change in direction of a wave as it slows down. In shallower water near the coast, waves slow down because of the force exerted on them by the seabed. If a wave is approaching the coast at an … chinook crash 2011

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WebThe effects of wave refraction also tend to concentrate wave energy on headlands or protrusions that stick out of the coastline and tend to defocus or diverge the energy in embayments. This is important for our purposes because the refraction of waves affects erosion, transportation, and deposition along the coastline. WebThe effect of bottom features upon waves can largely be interpreted in terms of a simple physical process-wave refraction. In turn, wave refraction may be responsible for … WebNov 16, 2015 · Waves cause erosion and deposition in several ways. Explanation: As waves reach shallow water near the ocean shore, they begin to break. As the breaking waves hit the shoreline, their force knocks fragments off existing rock formations. Another way waves causes erosion is by forcing water into cracks in the rocks at the shoreline. granite wilton ny